Porto 19-20 May

The train from Lisbon to Porto was fast (220kmph) and comfortable.  Only 15 euros for seniors tourist class - they inspected our passports - should we be flattered?  Our Ibis hotel is very clean and comfortable but they skimp on items to force you to use their lounge - no fridge in room, 6 euros extra for breakfast, free internet only in lounge.  I recommend the Turim  chain instead - same 3 star, 5 euros dearer but included breakfast,  fridge and free wifi.

Good advice from reception saw us on foot the first afternoon, exploring the city in fine sunny weather.  It is quite hilly and the 1km map squares made some things seem further than they were.  We were thrilled with Sao Bento metro station and its turn of 20th C transport tiles.  

Later we found ourselves outside the City Hall in a huge area.  We had a beer nearby where the waiter told us that a union demonstration had just finished and football party would start later to celebrate Porto's win in the Europe soccer league.

Waiting for meal

More walking to find a restaurant. 

David had an excellent meal of "whiting (hake) with sauce".  Looked like small swordfish steak and was accompanied by prawns, small mussels and creamy sauce.  My grilled turkey was OK.  As we ate, young people were walking around with blue and white shirts, scarves, flags.  We followed them back to City Hall.  Our guidebook says that Portuguese are easy-going, mild-mannered people, very courteous except when driving.  True.  But they need a lesson in how to celebrate a sporting victory from the Italians.

  Next day we walked down town and stopped by chance at Santa Clara Convent Church.  The convent was established in 1416 but the church interior with elaborate Baroque gilded wood was created around 1730.  Not to our taste, but worth seeing once.

 The best part of exploring this church was the discovery behind it of the 14thC city wall, which David walked with confidence, while I was somewhat fearful.  The seagull was not disturbed by us.

Oporto Cathedral dates from the 12^th and 13^th centuries, as does the Rose Window.

 

In the Chapel of St Vincent is a 17th C choir stall with biblical scenes.

Porto has many bridges.

Great lunch of grilled squid

After lunch we went on an old-fashioned tram along the river and down to the Atlantic Ocean.  A pleasant way to end the day.

Sintra 18 May

The next and last day in Lisbon we spent at Sintra.  What a pity as the beautiful scenery was hard to see because of mist and showers.  We were cold, unprepared, with short sleeves and umbrellas, no raincoats.  I decided to limit our experience to 2 “palaces”, both 19^th C extravaganzas.  The first and highest, over 500m, was Pena, a Portuguese equivalent, but on much larger scale, of Brighton Royal Pavilion.  All is preserved as it was in 1910; no photos allowed inside. 

The garden area, 85 hectares, was barren when the Royals came, but is now described as a natural environment of rare beauty and scientific importance.  We saw little, but noticed a large clump of azaleas and rhododendrons in full flower, very lovely.

Guardian's  Gate

Next to Quinta da Regaleira, bought in 1840 by Baroness da Regaleira and transformed into an elegant summer retreat.  In 1893 Manini, a famous Italian architect, started a 14 year commission to extend and enhance buildings and gardens.  The new owner was a  wealthy chap, Monteiro, who was very learned and also rather peculiar. 

Regaleira Tower

The grounds are full of mysterious places, tunnels, caves, waterfalls, fountains... 

Leda’s Cave

Fortunately, the showers stopped long enough for us to explore, use our torch to get through one tunnel,  climb up a 27m tower and eventually emerge on another level.

Tiles on Pisoe's Loggia

The Main House is also extraordinary.

View of gate from house